Beyond the 'Third': The Untold Evolution and Legend of Levi's 557XX Trucker Jacket

“Beyond the ‘Third’: The Untold Evolution and Legend of Levi’s 557XX Trucker Jacket”

Levi’s denim jackets have transcended their origins as mere workwear, continuing to captivate people worldwide as icons of American casual style. Within this lineage, the Type III model, commonly known as the “Third” and designated as the 557XX, holds a pivotal position as the archetype of the modern trucker jacket. However, the journey leading to its debut and the subtle evolutions hidden within its details are rarely discussed. In this article, from the perspective of a denim historian, we will delve deep into the birth of the 557XX, its construction, cultural impact, and its value in the vintage market.

1. Introduction — Why This Item is Culturally Significant

Levi’s denim jackets have undergone numerous transformations throughout their long history. Following the introduction of the 506XX (Type I) and the 507XX (Type II), the 557XX (Type III), released in 1962, is a cornerstone that can be considered the prototype of the modern “trucker jacket.” Its refined design and functionality have continuously influenced the design of countless denim jackets that followed.

2. Historical Background — Evolution from Type I (506XX) to Type II (507XX)

To fully appreciate the 557XX, understanding the existence of its predecessors, Type I and Type II, is essential.

• Type I (506XX): Introduced around 1905 as the “Blouse.” By 1928, its defining features were established: a single flap pocket on the left chest, double pleats, and a cinch strap at the back. In 1936, the iconic Red Tab was first adopted (Levi Strauss & Co. Archives). During World War II, a simplified S506XX (WWII spec) emerged around 1944 due to material shortages, though the cinch strap was retained (Heddels).

• Type II (507XX): The Type II, released in 1953, marked a significant turning point from the Type I. The most notable change was the discontinuation of the cinch strap and its replacement with adjustable button tabs on both sides (Levi Strauss & Co. Archives). It also featured two symmetrical chest pockets with flaps, and the pleat tacks were replaced with bar tacks. This model had a relatively short production run of only nine years (1953-1962).

3. Structural Details — The Birth and Characteristics of the 557XX (Type III)

In 1962, the 557XX (Type III) made its debut, establishing a new standard in denim jacket design.

• Design Evolution: While retaining elements from the Type II, several decisive improvements were made. The most distinctive features are the slightly pointed “pointed pockets” for the chest flaps and the characteristic V-stitch on the yoke of the chest panel (Heddels, Long John). These additions emphasized a more refined and modern silhouette.

• Silhouette and Fit: The Type III was designed with a slimmer, more tailored fit compared to the Type II. This reflected the prevailing fashion trend of the time, which was moving towards more form-fitting styles.

• Materials and Manufacturing:

  • Denim Fabric: It is believed that the 557XX used approximately 13.5-ounce denim, likely from Cone Mills, woven in a Right-Hand Twill (RHT), similar to Levi’s jeans. This denim is renowned for its durability and beautiful aging potential.
  • Sewing and Hardware:
    • Pleats: Unlike the bar tacks of the Type II, the V-stitch on the chest panel of the Type III serves as a design accent.
    • Buttons: Distinctive metal shank buttons with the brand logo were used.
    • Rivets: Initially, exposed rivets were used. However, a significant change occurred with the model update in 1967 (when the model number changed to 70505), where the exposed rivets were removed (Levi’s Official Statement). This is thought to have been a response to the era’s demand for a more sophisticated look.
    • Red Tab: The Red Tab, attached to the left chest pocket, remained a prominent feature during this period.

• Selvedge: The selvedge (red ear) incorporated into the 557XX was produced on looms only available at the time, making it a rare and important element of vintage denim.

4. Identifying Authenticity and Age (Vintage vs. Replica)

The value of the 557XX in the vintage market is heavily dependent on its rarity and originality. The following details are crucial clues for identifying authenticity and age.

• Model Number: “557XX” refers to models produced from around 1962 to 1967. After 1967, the model number changed to “70505,” with subsequent detail modifications such as the removal of rivets.
• Presence of Rivets: Models prior to 1967, meaning the 557XX, feature exposed rivets, typically found below the front pockets. Models from 70505 onwards have these removed.
• Red Tab: The “Big E” Red Tab, characterized by a large “E,” is a feature of models produced before 1971.
• Buttons: The engraving and shape of the buttons are also useful for determining the age.
• Stitching: Subtle differences in the shape of the V-stitch and the color of other stitching threads may also indicate different eras.

As numerous replicas exist, careful comparison of these details is indispensable for identifying genuine vintage pieces.

5. Notable Figures and Cultural Appearances

The 557XX (Type III) is positioned as the definitive “trucker jacket” in the history of denim jackets due to its perfected design and functionality. In the 1960s, this jacket was widely worn in films, music, and street fashion as a symbol of rebellion and youthful self-expression. While specific notable wearers are not as prominently documented as with the 501XX, its status as an item symbolizing the counterculture of the 60s was firmly established.

6. Current Acquisition Sources (Vintage Market & Replica Brands)

Due to its production run of only five years (1962-1967), the 557XX is treated as a relatively rare item in the vintage market. Original pieces in good condition, in particular, tend to command high prices.

• Vintage Market:

  • Specialty Stores: These can be found in vintage clothing shops specializing in denim and online stores selling vintage wear. Prices vary greatly depending on condition and size.
  • Auction Sites: Listings can also be found on auction sites with active peer-to-peer transactions, but caution is advised regarding condition verification and seller reliability.

• Replica Brands:

  • Levi’s: Levi’s itself sometimes reissues faithful reproductions of past models. Among the models marketed as “trucker jackets,” some incorporate the design of the Type III.
  • Other Brands: Many brands release denim jackets inspired by the 557XX design. These brands often incorporate modern silhouettes and material sensibilities.

7. Conclusion — The Everlasting Icon, Type III

Despite its short production period, the Levi’s 557XX (Type III) occupies an extremely important place in the history of denim jackets. Its refined design, practicality, and enduring style continue to be appreciated by denim enthusiasts today. This jacket is more than just an article of clothing; it is a true icon symbolizing the evolution of American workwear and Levi’s creativity in elevating it to high fashion. Serving as the evolution from the 507XX (Type II) and the bridge to the 70505, the 557XX carries an indispensable chapter in the evolutionary narrative of the denim jacket.

Sources:

• Levi Strauss & Co. Archives
• Heddels — Levi’s Type III Trucker Jacket Guide
• Long John — Levi’s 557XX Type III Trucker Jacket
• Levi’s Official Statement